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Eco Fashion ~ Eco Transition ~ Eco Logical

March 8, 2008 · Print This Article

batik ketutThe True Greening of Balinese Textiles

The True Greening of Balinese textiles is a necessary future, and yet – in these times of Green Transition the current eco-advantage of Balinese products can be seen. This tiny island filled with spirit and love has traditionally made art and craft in every home, every village. Small batik studios and home-crafts are everywhere. The availability of sweat-free labor is an advantage on Bali if you choose your supplier carefully. The Balinese government has also upgraded the ecological practices of the dyeing industry immensely. How to go for the next step? Yes, there are sweat shop practices in Bali – especially in the batik industry, where immigrant workers (mostly from Java) are working in poor conditions dyeing cloth for large production sarongs which are then sold in the markets of Kuta at very cheap prices. Fabric choices are also limited by stringent trade restrictions.

It costs heavily to import organic cotton and other eco-friendly fabrics into Bali, thus the inevitable rayon goods. The rayon used in Bali comes from China – form an unknown supply chain. This is why I am trying to switch my line into cotton, ultimately – organic cotton or hemp.

Rayon itself can be made in a better, more ecological way – and is known as Tencel or Lyocell. Although my past attempts at offering advise to my Balinese friends and cohorts has not garnered the big changes I want for their health, their economy, their future, I will continue to suggest changes and look for openings in the practices of my suppliers in Bali.

Right now one of my batik artists – Ketut Suraya – is building a low-tech dye disposal treatment plant in his tiny studio.

DYE TREATMENT FROM THE SURFACESeveral of us who use his services are pitching in to pay for the materials and labor. Anyone can donate funding toward the building of a dye disposal treatment project in Bali, Thailand or anywhere textiles are being dyed. The dye waste problem has been very bad there, with very little understanding from the locals as to this toxic problem… and since the studios are usually very near to rice fields, I have been concerned with this for years. it is only now that one of our artist/suppliers has finally gotten the connection for himself, and we can begin to “Green” their dyeing industry – one shop at a time. I have many pictures of this process if you are interested in having your own low-tech treatment facility on site. Many of my Ancient Circles products over the past years have showcased beautiful batiks as developed and/or are handmade by this artist.flame pants

We need to support Bali in our Green transition. Look for fabrics which have simple color combinations and avoid the high impact processes of smoking (bleach) and Discharge process (Thiourea dioxide)

Support the Balinese Textile industry by choosing the label “Made in Bali” over that of India, China or other Asian countries with questionable factory conditions in their textile industry. And, ask your supplier if they personally know who dyed and tailored their items. Pay a bit more and get things made with love, supporting the ongoing traditions of work and play in Bali.

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Written by Annie · Filed Under Green Transitions 
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Comments

8 Responses to “Eco Fashion ~ Eco Transition ~ Eco Logical”

  1. Sehra on February 5th, 2009 10:12 pm

    Hello,

    I am a garment manufacturer. I was initially thinking of using rayon for a pants line that I have but decided against it because of the ecological implications.

    I am currently looking for tencel or lyocell fabric. Do you know if this is sold by the yard in Bali? I would really like to manufacture clothing as green as possible so any help will be greatly appreciated.
    ~Thank you.

  2. anniegreenjeans on March 5th, 2009 7:16 pm

    a thought – several years ago i had wanted to create a consortium
    of importers to influence the set up of a green dye shop and joint
    importation of green fabrics into bali…no reason not to revisit that
    again – do you have any other like minded designers to draw on? i can
    put you in touch with a well connected long term us designer – joannie
    mitchell…she knows a number of the eco-groups in bali,and was
    instrumental in our little dye shop disposal system.
    yours,
    ann

  3. jude moreland on December 19th, 2009 2:14 am

    i am part of a company dedicated to raiseing industry standards for sustainable textiles.

    we want very much to find a way to supply our large community of designers in bali with fair wage, organic fabrics… and we are researching ways to do this.

    if anyone can point us in the right direction of who to contact to get the particulars on import taxation it would be most appreciated.

  4. annieb on December 28th, 2009 7:51 am

    Dear Jude,
    As it looks in 2010 – it still isn’t easy to get organics into Bali. Most fabrics used there are still coming from China or Java, and are limited to rayon or silk with the exception of some wonderful linen & such – which are sold at a premium to designers. That said – a cooperative of designers could create a supply of organics to draw on with a little trust in each other & some savvy research. I suggest that a first point would be a textile import broker – there must be tons in Denpasar…my own Export agent appears to know quite a bit & she is not a specialist on Imports.
    I would love to get involved with such a coop & would trade out my rayon for org cotton as soon as we can. Anyone who is interested can contact me at this website…
    Thanks,
    anniegreenjeans

  5. astrid on February 3rd, 2010 8:28 am

    Hi, I’m interested in gathering information about organic cotton in Indonesia. I know some local brands already use organic cotton in their designs, namely Anjaly Bali, Nina Nikicio, and Firebolt Bandung. Surely, there are already some supply chain already in place. If you know anything about it, can you share any information about where to get them and is it locally made or imported? I’ll be willing to participate in activities needed to get organic cotton in Indonesia. thanks

  6. annieb on March 16th, 2010 5:26 am

    I have gotten out of touch, really…the last thing I knew – you imported it from China or India, it cost a small fortune in import duties and it was not available in the marketplace in Bali. Have you gone over to see what is possible now?
    Try contacting some of the people who have made his same comment – you could form an Organic Fabric Buying Collective..I would join!
    Here is one name- judeclearwater@yahoo.com

  7. joanne Mouland on March 10th, 2011 11:50 pm

    any news on organic cotton supplies in Bali? I’m trying to get it into school for my students to do textile work with

    Thanks,
    Joanne

  8. annieb on March 22nd, 2011 10:26 pm

    Hi Joanne,
    I have not asked in Bali lately, but – have you tried India…they are turning their cotton industry around – one stitch at a time! You can search for suppliers, I have been looking around the internet, & started making cotton produce bags from organics recently, makes me happy to reduce plastic use!

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